Momo Sushi Shack

The third restaurant from the chef-owner behind Williamsburg spots Bozu and Samurai Mama is located a bit further afield, in Bushwick. Momo’s unmarked and windowless wooden façade fronts a room sporting three large communal tables and an open kitchen in back. Organic pork belly (“Pork Betty”) arrives in a ring of bite-sized slices, tender and cooked in a soy, sake, ginger, and garlic sauce. Fried chicken emerges heavily breaded and delicious, with ponzu dipping sauce and chile oil on the side. On the sushi menu, the “bombs” reign supreme, slightly larger than a normal roll and lacking the seaweed wrap. Meanwhile, unusual combinations, like the Mc Low bomb (toro, avocado, wasabi cream) and the salmon guacamole roll (salmon, homemade guacamole) mingle with a vegetarian lineup of tofu and vegetable options. — Daniel Benjamin